13 episodes done, 64 to go!
Livia Soprano wins the award of most monstruous mother ever! She did live up to her first name (I assume she was created after the Roman model of Augustus' wife, right?). What an awful manipulative old woman!
What I can tell after one season is that the show is indeed great, especially in the character-study department -- not so much in terms of plotting and cleverly weaving narrative threads though (dare I ven say that some stuff is boring or not subtle at all?) --, but still dated in places.
The Livia/Tony was the core of this first season, with Uncle Junior playing a sort of third part (and a pawn manipulated by both mother and son) in what could be considered a triangle. I liked that. It's a show about a depressed mafioso but also about family, the clash of generations, the passing of time. The other "family" that is the mafia network isn't as interesting as the real one even though the hit on Tony was a well done scene (not as good as the hit on Hank in Breaking Bad 's "One Minute", but close).
David Chase and James Gandolfini were definitely great at fleshing out that ruthless and yet charming and complicated mobster that is Tony Soprano, but I also enjoyed how the Father Phil scenes gave a showcase to Carmela (and I loved the way she eventually called him on his shit, pointing out how he literally fed on mobsters' frustrated wives by saying "I think a lot of it is tied up with food somehow, as well as the sexual tension game.") and I also liked Lorraine Braco's performance as Dr Melfi.
I'm less sure about the other characters: Chris and his girlfriend, Tony's mob friends, Artie and his wife...
Also concerning Tony's children, the girl playing Meadow is good, but the boy playing Anthony is not.